Favorite Places & Hidden Tips in Naples: Discovering the City at Vesuvius

One of Naples' biggest attractions takes you straight from the streets underground. Napoli Sotterranea, the "City Beneath the City," was established in ancient times when building materials were extracted from below. During the Middle Ages, these voids served as water reservoirs, and during World War II, residents sought refuge here from bombings. The most popular underground tour begins right in the historic center at Piazza San Gaetano. For many, this tour is a must-do in Naples, and you will go underground in an orderly fashion with about 50 others.

A less crowded and therefore good alternative are the tours in the Spanish Quarter. Just near the shopping street Via Toledo, you will descend 180 steps into another world. You will learn more about the various functions and history of the Neapolitan underground, which also involves walking through some very narrow tunnels. But don't worry; if you have issues with tight spaces, you can skip this part.

The Spanish Quarter is worth a visit not only because of the underground tour but because you are right in the midst of lively daily life. Laundry lines are stretched across the streets, small trucks squeeze through the narrow alleys, and men sit in cafés enjoying their afternoon cigarettes. Through the open doors on the ground floor, you can peek directly into the kitchens and living spaces of the Neapolitans. From the fish restaurants, you can hear Italian pop, and nearby market stalls sell vegetables, underwear, or ties.

The Quartieri Spagnoli are directly adjacent to Via Toledo and were built in the 16th century as a residential area for soldiers when Naples belonged to Spain. For a long time, the quarter had a rather poor reputation, but times have improved, and today you can relax and soak it all in.

Once the embassy of the Venetian Republic, the 15th-century Palazzo has now become a cultural venue featuring exhibitions, concerts, and a theater. For me, Palazzo Venezia, located right on the bustling Spaccanapoli, is especially an oasis amid the chaos. In bad weather, you can cozy up on a couch in the café on the first floor, but when it's nice outside, the hidden garden at the back beckons. Here, in the greenery, you can leisurely sip your coffee and temporarily forget the hustle and bustle in the streets. Admission is free, by the way.

As mentioned earlier, Naples is practically entirely underground. The variety of subterranean sights is truly enormous. For those who don't want to spend the time on a lengthy tour, the church of San Lorenzo Maggiore is a good hidden gem. A few steps down, and you will find yourself amid the remnants of an ancient Roman marketplace. While a guided tour is available, you can also explore the market streets on your own. The information boards provide insights into the various rooms and their functions.

While we're on the subject of Spaccanapoli: This Roman road runs straight through the historic center. It consists of individual sections with different names, but everyone simply refers to it as Spaccanapoli overall. Here, you find restaurants, cafés, souvenir shops, churches, plazas, old palaces, residential houses, and both tourists and locals in an unending flow through the city. Cars and scooters squeeze between them, it's loud and hectic - simply typical Naples.

As you stroll through the historic center, it's worth keeping an eye out for street art and veering off the main path. None other than Banksy has left a piece of art with 'Madonna with a pistol' on Piazza dei Girolamini, which you can admire behind glass. Otherwise, at every corner, you'll encounter portraits in all varieties of the famous footballer of SSC Napoli: Diego Maradona.

Along the coast of Naples stretches the promenade Lungomare Carracciolo. While strolling, you can enjoy views of the sea and Mount Vesuvius. Sit down on the wall with an ice cream in hand or relax in one of the restaurants along the promenade. A highlight is Castel dell'Ovo with the small marina on the islet of Megaride, which is accessible via a bridge.

The first settlement on Megaride dates back to the 6th century BC. Over time, a castle was built and continually renovated. The history of the castle is varied, and its name is somewhat quirky. Translated, Castel dell'Ovo means 'Egg Castle' because the Roman poet and writer Virgil supposedly placed an egg into the foundation of the castle. As long as the egg remains intact, neither the castle nor the city need worry about misfortune.

If you wish, you can spend the whole day in churches in Naples. Completely by chance, I stumbled upon the small church of Santa Luciella on the street of the same name, which was built in the 14th century and later taken over by the guild of pipernieri, the stone workers. They dedicated the church to Saint Lucia, the patron saint of eyesight, who was meant to protect them from eye injuries while working with hammer and chisel. The church suffered severe damage during an earthquake in 1980 and fell into disrepair over the following decades. However, Santa Luciella is being revived after a long slumber.

In addition to the church space, there is a crypt that houses a curiosity: the so-called skull with ears - even though it's more of a curiously shaped skull fragment. Nevertheless, the skull is highly regarded by the faithful. Many come to place their wishes on small notes in the crypt. If the wish comes true, a small plaque is affixed to the wall as a thank you.

When I land in Naples, I receive a message from my mother, who expresses concern that there was an earthquake in Naples the night before. The fear of an eruption from Vesuvius or the Phlegraean Fields always looms over the city. It is said that this constant threat makes Naples so vibrant. Here, life - the proverbial dance on the volcano - is celebrated with even more passion.

A visit to the volcano is fascinating but far from a hidden gem. You can either drive yourself or book a tour with one of the countless tour providers to Vesuvius. If you're using public transportation, you can take the Circumvesuviana train to Ercolano and from there transfer to a shuttle bus that takes you to the entrance of the national park.

I recommend exploring the city for at least two full days. If you want to visit Pompeii or include a trip to Vesuvius, then plan significantly more time. Ideally, you can combine Naples with a little road trip to the Amalfi Coast or other nearby destinations.

Naples is at its most beautiful in spring or autumn. During the peak summer season, it not only gets crowded but also very hot.

A great spot for sunset is from Castel dell'Ovo. The Santa Chiara monastery in the historic center is a wonderful place to catch your breath. It's famous for its beautiful 14th-century cloister, which features a garden with citrus trees in its midst.