Mekong Delta - Traveling Between River Arms and Rice Fields in Southern Vietnam

Floating markets, dense mangroves, rice fields stretching to the horizon - welcome to the Mekong Delta, one of the most beautiful and tradition-rich regions of Vietnam. The Mekong, referred to by the Vietnamese as the 'River of Nine Dragons,' splits into nine arms that weave through jungles, orchards, and seemingly endless rice fields before flowing into the South China Sea. With its milky brown water, join me on a journey through this lush, diverse region.

Can Tho is the largest city in the Mekong Delta and as the political, economic, and cultural center of the region, there's always something happening here: No other place in the Delta sees so many travelers from around the world, mainly coming to visit the famous floating markets like Cai Rang and Phong Dien.

But Can Tho offers even more: Along the riverside promenade, lovingly designed gardens line broad boulevards that are interspersed with narrow alleys. Located directly at the Ninh Kieu Pier, the yellow façade of the Old Market of Can Tho, with its arches and green wooden shutters, still exudes the charm of bygone days. Inside, you'll find stalls full of tropical fruits, dried fish, lotus seeds, coconut caramel, and intricately woven baskets. You'll surely find a beautiful souvenir to take home.

Of course, a visit to a temple is a must in Can Tho. The Ong Pagoda is one of the most significant religious sites in Can Tho. The exterior is richly adorned with intricate ornaments, colorful mosaics, and exquisite carvings.

In the evening, the night market at Ninh Kieu awakens - the perfect place to dive into the local cuisine for which Can Tho is renowned throughout Vietnam. Here are some of my favorites that you should definitely try:

The most common way to travel is by bus from Ho Chi Minh City: Numerous providers depart daily from the center of Saigon and reach destinations in the Delta such as My Tho, Can Tho, or Ben Tre in three to five hours, depending on the destination. For more comfort, I recommend minivans, which you can easily book just like the buses through 12go Asia. I paid 14 Euros for my trip to Can Tho (as of April 2025). If you prefer private transport with hotel pickup, expect to pay around 50 Euros, which can also be reserved online.

Cai Rang is the largest floating market in the Mekong Delta. Just before sunrise, life on the water awakens here. I found myself still half-asleep in a small boat at half past four, ready to dive into the colorful hustle and bustle.

Upon arriving at the market, everything around me was in motion: Hundreds of wooden boats bobbing on the river, fully loaded with pineapples, watermelons, pumpkins, and flowers. Everywhere people wave, haggle, trade, and loudly exchange the freshest goods from the region.

I could hardly take my eyes off this chaos of colors and people. For photographers, Cai Rang is a paradise. Everywhere you look, there are great photo opportunities: dark wooden boats packed to the brim with fruit, vendors wearing traditional conical hats, and in the background, the gentle glimmer of the Mekong at sunrise.

And when hunger strikes, the numerous breakfast boats await customers. We headed to one boat where an older woman served her dishes directly from the cooking pot. My favorite: Hu Tieu, a spicy noodle soup with pork or shrimp served with fresh herbs.

Most vendors only accept cash in small bills. So it's best to keep some extra Vietnamese Dong on hand.

Be early! Between 5 and 7 AM, you'll experience the market at its liveliest. By 8 AM, it gets quieter as many boats head back home.

Comfortable, lightweight clothing and shoes that can get wet are perfect.

Always ask nicely before you take someone's picture.

From Can Tho, you can reach the boat pier in just a few minutes. Arrange a tour in advance, including a guide and breakfast on the water.

The Phong Dien floating market is much smaller and more tranquil compared to Cai Rang. Large motorized boats are nowhere to be found here. Instead, just a few narrow sampans (wooden boats without motors) glide over the water, steered by standing vendors.

The market itself is older than its larger neighbor and retains a very original feel. Many of the people here trade without money: They exchange their goods directly with each other: mangoes for bananas, pumpkins for coconuts. We were one of the few tourist boats on site, meaning we could approach the boats closely and buy fresh fruit directly from the vendors.

What struck me the most: People here seem to spend more time chatting and laughing than loudly promoting their wares. It's a vibrant mix of friendly chatter and trading.

As soon as I knew I was traveling to Vietnam, I wanted to experience a river cruise on the Mekong. In Can Tho, it was finally time. Around noon, I stood at Ninh Kieu Pier, a cool welcome drink in hand, the Bassac gently rocking before me. The traditional wooden boat is my home for the next three days. I settled into my cozy cabin, met the crew, and hardly realized when the ship set sail - the city faded away, and the river lay before us.

While enjoying a leisurely lunch onboard, the typical southern Vietnamese life passes by outside: rice fields stretching to the horizon, sugar cane plantations, and green forests along the banks. In the afternoon, we continued through the Nicolai Canal, towards Mang Thit and Co-Chien River.

Later, the Bassac anchors for a short bicycle excursion. I cycle between orchards and rice fields and discover simple life away from the waterways. Riding a bike allows you to reach places often overlooked by boat: tiny paths along the canals, hidden temples, small cafés, or markets where you can stop for a fresh coconut drink.

Before dawn on the next day, the Bassac sets sail again. I woke up extra early to capture the first light of the day, stood on deck, breathed in the cool morning air, and watched as the first boats glided across the river.

This morning, another highlight awaits: Before heading to Cai Be, we hop on our bikes again to explore the surroundings. Along the way, we stop at a small rice noodle factory that has existed in the Delta for generations. Rice flour and water are combined to create a smooth dough, which is spread onto hot plates, steamed, dried, and then cut into fine strips. The noodles are ready.

After the trip ashore, we return to board, continuing along the Co-Chien River and into the Cho Lach Canal. On the left and right, rice barges anchor, children splash in the river, fruits and coconuts dry in the sun on the banks, and wooden boats are crafted in small shipyards - a completely normal morning in the Mekong Delta.

Upon arriving in Cai Be, we stop at a basket weaver. She shows us how sturdy baskets are made from dried palm leaves with painstaking handwork. Sitting cross-legged, her nimble fingers weave symmetrical patterns. This craft has traditionally been passed down from mother to daughter here.

On the third day, my journey takes me back to Can Tho - not just with a memory card full of images, but countless impressions, encounters, and little stories that will stay with me for a long time.

I can wholeheartedly recommend a Mekong Cruise. The ship was comfortable, the routes were lovingly planned, and the crew ensures that you feel well taken care of from the very first moment. You can find more information at Mekong Cruise.

Cai Be lies on the northern bank of the Mekong and at first glance, seems like a sleepy little town. A distinctive landmark is the Catholic church of Cai Be, which stands right by the riverside. Its bright bell tower rises above the palms, visible from afar as you approach the place by boat. Built during the French colonial period, the church with its colorful stained glass windows and simple interior still exudes the charm of days gone by.

Not far away is the local market of Cai Be, stretching along the riverside road in the mornings. Early risers stroll among stalls full of exotic fruits, fresh fish, fragrant herbs, and small food stalls where locals serve delicious noodle soups or sweet coconut snacks.

Unfortunately, the once vibrant floating market of Cai Be has completely disappeared since 2021. Due to extensive road construction, trade on the water has come to a halt.

About an hour's drive from Can Tho lies Lung Ngoc Hoang, one of the best-kept natural secrets of the Mekong Delta. Spanning over 2,800 hectares, this pristine wetland is home to more than 200 bird species, including some rare or endangered ones.

Slowly, you glide through green canals by boat, passing dense forests. I was particularly fascinated by the silver-billed stork, which with its distinctive beak and calm movements searches for prey among the water plants. You can also observe Sarus cranes, kingfishers, and many other water birds here.

If you wish, you can then climb the 25-meter-high observation tower. From here, the view extends over the endless swamp forest and, depending on the season, over brightly green rice fields. Plan about an hour and a half for the boat trip and the walk. A special highlight is visiting an ancient giant fig tree. This mighty tree once served the Viet Cong in the war as the perfect hiding place for weapons and fighters.

The best way to discover the area is through a guided tour, as the guides know the flora and fauna well and can show you animals and plants you might easily overlook on your own. I took the tour organized from Can Tho and booked in advance through Get your Guide.

This journey was made possible by the kind support of Vietnam Airlines.