48 Hours in Lisbon: You Must Walk Over Seven Hills

Lisbon is the city of seven hills, just like Rome. However, the pace of the Portuguese capital is more relaxed, as our blogger Alexandra notes. She has the best travel tips for a city trip to the 'City of Light' on the Tagus River.

I don't have a plan for my city trip to Lisbon. No list of must-see attractions and highlights that I have to check off. A slight unease rises up as I wait for my flight to Lisbon. It's not that I worry about missing something I should absolutely see in the two days I have there. As I leave the centrally located BessaHotel Liberdade on Avenida de Liberdade the next morning, I quickly realize: Just walking around and letting myself be carried away by the rhythm of the city is the best plan to get to know Lisbon, even during a short trip.

Lisbon, the city of seven hills, just like Rome. But compared to its lively Italian sister, the pace of the Portuguese capital is more leisurely. At least when you stroll through the quiet streets and alleys of old Lisbon during the day. The neighborhood districts Graça, Mouraria, Alfama, and Bairro Alto hug the hills of the city, offering numerous viewpoints, the Miradouros.

Up and down - Lisbon seems to know only these two directions. If walking up the hills is too strenuous, one can hop on an Eléctrico, the old, electrically powered trams. Or take an elevator, an Elevador. There's still plenty of space in the bright yellow carriage of the Elevador da Glória near Praça de Restauradores. But I decide to take the stairs.

I'm almost as quick as the little tram that rumbles, rattles, and puffs its way up the steep hill at a snail's pace. The advantage of my foot march: I not only get to admire the houses adorned with mosaic tiles, but I can also take my time to enjoy the graffiti in the Urban Art Gallery. The street Calçada da Glória is one of the many places in Lisbon where street artists are allowed to express themselves legally.

Next to the mountain station, I find a spot where you wouldn't want to leave: the Miradouro São Pedro de Alcântara. A gentle breeze, screeching seagulls, lounge chairs - one could almost imagine being at the beach. If it weren't for the ringing of church bells from the São Pedro de Alcântara Monastery and the view of the sea of houses and the castle hill with the Castelo de São Jorge. I plan to come back in the evening to enjoy the sunset at the charming kiosk with a sparkling martini. Miradouro translates to 'look at the gold' for good reason.

I continue to stroll up Rua Dom Pedro V. I pass by the Lost In Esplanada Bar, boutiques with quirky clothes, all of which are still closed in the morning. The trendy neighborhood of Príncipe Real is for late risers. The same goes for Bairro Alto, where I slowly walk down through its drowsy streets. The chairs in the Fado restaurants and cocktail bars are stacked high. In the little grocery shops, aging saleswomen arrange the vegetables. The hat maker raises the blind of his shop. It feels almost like a village in the former working-class neighborhood, which exudes a slightly morbid charm with its crumbling facades and is the go-to spot for night owls in the evening.

The scent of freshly baked goods wafts to my nose. Every few meters there's a pastelería, where the most famous pastry in Portugal is served - Pastel de Nata. I stop at Padaria São Roque, which recently moved to Rua de Rosa 192, and allegedly makes the best vanilla cream cakes in town. Aside from the famous version from Belém, of course. They only cost 1 Euro each. I take two right away.

My path takes me back up to the Miradouro Santa Catarina. Even better than directly at the kiosk is sitting on the terrace of the Noobai. While enjoying a papaya juice, I take in the view of the sparkling Tagus River and Lisbon's iconic landmark - the Ponte 25 de Abril.

The bridge bears a remarkable resemblance to the Golden Gate Bridge. Were I hungry again, I'd visit Pharmácia, the restaurant in the pharmacy museum above Miradouro Santa Catarina. The garden: a green oasis. The interior: like an old pharmacy. The restaurant Odomastor near the Elevador da Bica station also looks inviting.

Eventually, I arrive during my little city trip at Largo do Carmo, a quaint square in front of the ruins of the Convento do Carmo. At the kiosk of the same name, which is nice to look at with its art nouveau iron decorations, red wine is already being drunk to Brazilian music at noon. Red wine and Italian delicacies are also available on the rooftop terrace of Bella Lisa (editor's note: closed). The venue is located right next to the Elevador de Santa Justa, which is the most impressive lift in Lisbon with its cast-iron construction.

The view of the monastery ruins and the colorful houses with red roofs is stunning. Add to that a bright blue sky and even in winter spring-like temperatures - Lisbon, you're wrapping me around your finger more and more. I was almost ready to move on when I discover a true gem at the back of the monastery: the bar Topo Chiado. In the niches of the thick walls, sofas and chairs invite you to linger through the afternoon.

Tip for Chiado: Those who stroll through Chiado will sooner or later end up on Rua Garrett. Here you will find not only high-end shops, but also the probably most famous café in the city: A Brasileira. In this art-deco coffee house, the Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa once met other thinkers for Bica, the Portuguese version of espresso.

At Praça da Figueira in the lower town, I actually board a tram. I sway through the narrow streets of Baixa up to Graça and the old Moorish district Mouraria on a historic Eléctrico. Patience is needed, though. The driver keeps cranking and leaning out the window. A car is parked too closely to the tracks. With finesse and hydraulics, he finally manages to position the wagon so we can pass.

At Miradouro de Santa Luzia, I hop off the wobbly vehicle. Here, I'm starting my walk through Alfama. But not without taking a look over the red-tiled roofs, from which two of the city's most beautiful buildings rise: the São Vicente de Fora Monastery and the Pantheon. It's no wonder that the locals call their city the 'City of Light.' The whitewashed houses of Alfama glow in the sunlight.

The maze of narrow streets once inhabited by Moors is the oldest district of Lisbon. The crooked houses with birdcages in the windows and the arches over the steep stairs have survived the great earthquake of 1775 almost unscathed. The scent of sardines fills the air. Perhaps I should drop into a Taca, one of the little snack bars. There's an empty seat at the rickety table of two construction workers who are taking their lunch break here. Do what the locals do.

I take a quick look inside the Sé Cathedral, the oldest church in Lisbon, and find my way into one of the streets leading up to the castle hill. At Costa do Costelo, I discover Chapitô à Mesa. The house hosts a circus school and a restaurant. Patience is required here too. But the wait for a free table is rewarded with a window seat and delicious veal fillet with mushroom risotto and green asparagus. Not to mention the dream of white mousse with pear.

At Cais do Sodre station, I board the Eléctrico again, this time heading to Belém. Not for the Pastéis de Belém, nor for the Torre de Belém or the Jerónimos Monastery. My destination is the old power plant by the Tagus River and a building clad in shiny tiles that looks like an open shark mouth. The Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology - known as MAAT - is the newest museum in Lisbon. It's best to visit this art hall, which opened in October 2016 and is considered a counterpart to the Tate Modern in London, in the early evening. That's when the sky above the Ponte 25 de Abril is washed in a delicate blue-pink, as the sun slowly sinks orange-red into the Tagus in the west.

Back at Cais do Sodre, it's just a stone's throw to the Mercado da Ribeira. The old market hall is the perfect place for anyone who can't decide among the multitude of excellent restaurants during their city trip to Lisbon. In the Time Out Market, nearly 30 of the best establishments in the city have a branch. After oysters at Sea Me, it's time for Bacalhau, the true Lisbon specialty. At Cozinha de Felicidade, you can enjoy the cod in a modern variation, with olive dust and sweet potato chips served in a creamy sauce. Lisbon, when can I come back?

In addition to the Miradouros, you also have fantastic views over the roofs of Lisbon from Castelo de São Jorge. The fortress, built by the Moors on a hill above Alfama in the 11th century, is considered the cradle of Lisbon. After strolling along the fortress walls, you can enjoy a special view of Lisbon through the Camera Obscura in the tower room. Admission is 10 Euros.

The Torre de Belém is supposedly the most photographed attraction in Lisbon. From the elaborately decorated defense tower, which was built in the early 16th century, the Portuguese conquerors set sail. From the upper platform, you get a good view of the other attractions in Belém. Admission costs 6 Euros.

Not only the Bica-drinking poet Fernando Pessoa is buried here, but also Vasco da Gama lies in the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. The sprawling Jerónimos Monastery is worth a visit mainly because of its extraordinary architecture - a mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and a bit of Oriental - Admission is 10 Euros. The combination ticket for Torre de Belém/Mosteiro dos Jerónimos costs 12 Euros.