Karpathos Active: Hiking on Old Mule Paths

Old mule and foot paths wind through the rugged and barren mountainous landscape of the sparsely populated island of Karpathos. Whitewashed villages with picturesque chapels nestle against the mountain slopes. The pristine landscapes, the breathtaking panoramic views of the sea, along with the hospitality and tranquility, make Karpathos an untouched hiking paradise worth exploring.

Once again, a curve lies ahead of me, winding single-lane around the mountain and leading up to the Lastos plateau. Sweaty, I reach the tavern Taverna Kali Limni - Kali Kardiá, from where I begin my climb up the highest mountain on Karpathos, the 1215 m tall Kalí Límni. The path leads through low, evergreen bushes and loose stones. There are hardly any trees for shade. The scent of thyme and the bleating of goats fill the air. Without the strong wind, the Meltémi, the midday heat would be unbearable. The island's most popular hiking trail, like the others, is marked with red dots. A handful of tourists come my way on the last steep section. Just before noon, I reach the summit cross and enjoy the stunning panoramic view of the mountains and the turquoise sea.

After signing the summit book, I begin my descent. I rest in the shade of the tavern's trees afterward. The host Thanássis joins me, gives me a raki and a dessert, and proudly shows me his garden filled with homegrown fruits and vegetables.

It is Sunday, and the streets of Messochóri are deserted. Here and there, a cat stretches, crickets chirp. I try to keep my bearings in the winding alleys of the village as I walk down the stone steps to Platia Skopi and eventually reach the exposed rock square. This used to be a lookout point to warn of pirates. Today it serves as a venue for local festivities with its chapels Agios Stavros and Agios Nikolaos. Next to it lies the blue-painted Kafe Skopi, which I visit first for a coffee, and the small domed church Archangelos Mishali. The vines twist around the posts of the café terrace. Messochóri is known for its gardens, which are nourished by the spring water under the Panagía church.

At the Panagía church, I start my hike on an old Monopáti towards Spóa. The rock wall, which I initially walk past gardens, olive groves, and vineyards, offers no shade. The path between the dry stone walls is overgrown but still recognizable. After only a quarter of an hour, the red roof of the snow-white chapel Ágios Charálambos blinks. From here, I continue my 10 km circular hike along the western slope. A 'Hoa' from the shepherd and the ringing of bells sound from the valley.

After passing through a small, shady pine forest, the view opens up to the ridge with the old windmills of Spóa. Along a dirt track, I pass the lovely chapel Ágii Anárgiri, and then the path winds up the slope. The crumbling mills balance on the edge of the cliff, fighting against the strong wind. It is still a fifteen-minute walk on paved road to the settlement. This place is terraced and located at the narrowest part of the island, which measures only 4 km here.

I stroll through the car-free streets that take me past the public wash area to the beautiful church Ágios Géorgios. Later, I follow a familiar path back past the windmills into the valley.

Another hiking destination takes me to the northern part of the island. Dark clouds drift over Diafani as I make my way to Avlóna. The Karpathos outer settlement impressively lies on a high plateau. To reach it, the marked path first leads me past the beautiful Vanánda bay.

The surroundings only grow barren once I leave the overgrown creek bed, enclosed by bamboo, oleander, and thorny bushes, and walk a short distance along the path. The blue-red marking soon gets lost in the maze of low stone walls and bushes. The beautiful view of the distant sea and the rugged mountain slopes rewards me. Later, I reach the marked path again, which is now a 100-year-old paved road lined with dry stone walls.

The wind lashes over the plateau as I reach Avlóna in under two hours. Cubiform Stawliá, as the simple dwellings are called, are lined up next to each other. Very few are occupied full-time. Farmers only come here for fieldwork. Swinging power poles stretch over the roofs. The wind tugs at my hair. The whistling noise blends with the sounds of bells. Goats are the only sign of life I encounter in Avlóna at this midday hour. On the way back to Diafani, I take another paved mule path that soon merges into a dirt track. The view from up here over the rugged mountainous landscape is beautiful.

Another hiking trail leads from Diafani over an old Monopáti to Olympos. The mountain village is said to be picturesque. So picturesque that the small streets fill with tourists during lunch. Therefore, I prefer to visit the mountain village in the late afternoon. The small Olympic houses in white, yellow, or pastel colors cling to the slopes like stacked blocks. In the village, you'll still find a few traditional ovens where women bake their tasty Olympic bread, but the day is over, and thus the ovens rest.

Souvenir shops and restaurants line the path from the parking lot to the church. The vendors sit bored in the doorframes or chat. The village feels sleepy, as if life is from another time. Old women in traditional attire with black headscarves and white dresses are still seen here more often.

250 m above sea level, windmills are lined up like pearls in the roaring wind. Few are still operational. One of them is now a tavern. When I enter the Restaurant O Milos, I almost feel like I am disturbing. An old woman with Mandilia, a black cloth, takes my order. Rugged mountains serve as a backdrop, and on the other side lies the turquoise sea.

Karpathos is rugged in landscape but very warm at heart. Nature lovers and fans of quiet and remote places can embark on a journey of discovery on Karpathos and discover a piece of authentic Greece best on foot. Karpathos beaches and bathing coves are also worth a visit.