The Secluded Beaches of Karpathos

Not even two weeks would be enough to see all the beaches of Karpathos, the owner of Kafe Skopi (editor's note: closed) tells me, laughing out loud. I only have a week to explore the rocky island between Rhodes and Crete. And Karpathos isn't even that big. But in the rugged mountain slopes, you can find many secluded coves that invite swimming in a captivating backdrop. From wild pebble beaches in the northern part of the island to stunning sandy beaches in the west of Karpathos, I want to discover as many of them as possible.

The beach of Pigádia is located not far from the port. At the white sandy beach, bathers enjoy the sun on neatly arranged sun loungers under protective umbrellas. In the sea, there are many large pebbles, but at the Electra Beach Hotel, you can also relax and float through the water without water shoes. By the way, the hotel is also a great option if you want to stay a few days in Pigádia: Here, you enjoy an unbeatable view of the sea, stay right on the beach, and are served local cuisine.

This section was partially supplemented by the Travellers Insight editorial team.

Behind Pigádia, the asphalt road takes the consistent form of winding turns. To the right, the view tempts with beautiful bays, to the left, the mountains. The road leads from Apéri down into a stunning valley filled with pine forests, olive groves, and oleander bushes towards Acháta. I stop at a small white chapel to take a look at the beach. My feet soon feel their way through the rough pebbles to the sea. Hardly anyone goes into the crystal-clear water without a snorkel and mask. Once I've refreshed myself, I continue my journey northward.

The breathtaking thing about the trip around Karpathos is not just the curves, but what unfolds in the gaps between bushes and pine forests along the roadside. One cove is more beautifully embraced by rugged cliffs than the next. Boats bob on the turquoise water.

My next stop on the way northward is Acháta Beach - Paralia Acháta. The water shines in beautiful blue, Acháta is not overcrowded and thus still a little insider tip. When the midday sun cranks up, you can explore the caves and gorges around the beach or enjoy a drink from the beach bar while relaxing on a sunbed with umbrella, which you can rent together for €10.

As beautiful as it is in Acháta - Karpathos still has many more exciting experiences and uniquely beautiful areas to offer.

Between Acháta Beach and Ápella Bay, more beaches with crystal-clear water and pebbles await. The Kato Lakkos for example, is a true hidden gem that you can reach via a 2 km hike from Katodio. The approximately 30-minute hike down to the beach is absolutely worth the effort - because Kato Lakkos is only accessible on foot, it is still considered one of the island's insider tips and invites you to linger. Just remember that you have to hike back up the trail and do so before sunset!

About 3 kilometers further north of Kato Lakkos, you will find the famous Kyra Panagia beach, a beautiful pebble cove with a handful of nice taverns. Although Kyra Panagia is more touristy, the picturesque setting is definitely worth a visit, and outside of the high season, you can find peace and relaxation here as well.

This section was supplemented by the Travellers Insight editorial team.

Where the beach shines particularly white and every lounger is occupied, you will find Ápella Bay - the most common postcard motif of the island. Naturally, I couldn't miss taking a few pictures here. You reach the beach from the main road via a winding asphalt path.

At Ápella Beach, there is only one tavern, the Taverna Ápella. Here you can enjoy local food and are welcomed with incredibly warm hospitality.

From Ápella, my journey continues further north - I am drawn to the northern east coast of Karpathos.

I spend the first few days away from tourist hotspots in the small fishing village of Diafáni. It only gets busy when excursion boats from the south bring day visitors for further travel to Ólympos. The locals sit outside the taverns enjoying a frappé. Right in the middle of Diafáni is Diafani Beach - a kind of classic city beach from which you can embark on great hikes.

Half an hour north of the town lies Vanánta Bay. The path to the beach is well marked, a small hike of about 3 km through forests and olive groves, during which I even spot a monk seal in the sea, leads me to the pebbly beach. Only a handful of tourists sunbathe here on their towels. A small spring trickles in the bushes, and on the hill, a chapel shines, from which the scent of incense wafts. There are no sun loungers or restaurants - instead, it's pure nature and crystal-clear water!

South of Diafáni are bathing coves framed by cliffs that are mostly only accessible by boat, off-road vehicle, or on foot. I take the coastal hiking trail past the beaches of Kambí and Fokái to the solitary Papa Minás Beach. The pebbly beach is framed by shady tamarisks.

At our Kaíki, as the boats are called here, the northern coast of Karpathos passes by. Rugged cliffs leave no room for bathing bays. Our captain George Protopapas from Captain Manolis Boat steers the Kaíki into a cave. We are so enchanted by the light coming in that we jump into the crystal-clear water.

The strait of Stenó separates Karpathos from the 16 square kilometer island of Saría. 110 m lie between the islands. The days when farmers cultivated land here and dragged their animals through the water on leashes are long gone. Nevertheless, you can still find a few goats on Ta Palátia beach, which we head to first.

Rock formations jut out into the turquoise sea. The ruins of houses from Syrian pirates cling scattered to the hillside.

Not far from the beach, there is another cave in the rock wall. We snorkel through it and enjoy the view of the deep gorge beneath us. We then head to the secluded Alimoúnta Bay, which conveys a Robinson Crusoe feeling.

From the secluded island of Saría, which lies off the northern coast of Karpathos, I continue westward to the most beautiful sandy beaches.

In response to my question about the best beaches on the island, the name Lefkós almost always comes up. Not without reason is this bathing resort a major tourist attraction. Sandy beaches adorn the peninsula where Lefkós is located. Especially at the popular village beach Gialoú Chórafi, overlooking the fishing harbor and taverns, loungers and umbrellas are tightly packed.

On the other side of the peninsula are the sandy beaches of Limáni Panagia and Frangolimiónas, which are far more airy and inviting. At the Taverna & Apartments Golden Sand, you can enjoy Greek food, admire the sunset, and then take a walk along Frangolimiónas Beach.

On the way from Lefkós to Arkássa, there are further swimming options that I consider worth a visit. One of them is a 15-minute walk from The Pine Tree Restaurant, which serves very delicious food. Blue markers guide me along the cliffs to the hidden Chándakas Bay. The last meters lead down a ladder from the cliffs into the deserted cove. The sea violently rushes into the narrow crevice filled with bright pebbles.

From Lefkos, I head down the coast to the south of the island. Here, too, I want to explore the beaches - my starting point is Arkássa.

In the shadow of the mighty Paleókastro rock, where once a fortress stood, lies the busy sandy beach Ágios Nikólaos. In the evenings, surf students learn to ride the waves, and during the day you can see parents and children jumping the waves. You can enjoy sunsets in the dramatic rocky scenery with a view of the offshore island of Kássos from the Karpassion Beach Bar with a drink or while having dinner at the Tavérna Gláros.

If you prefer something a bit more secluded, you should drive 4 km further to Cape Ágios Theódoros. Below the tavern and chapel lies the quiet Ágios Theódoros Beach, hidden in a cove. On the way to the cape, there is a sign pointing to the double bay Aráki. The first bay behind the white houses is more secluded, wilder, and untouched. The other bay is somewhat busier due to the comfort of umbrellas and loungers. Steep paths lead down to both.

Behind the two landing strips of the airport, a sign leads me to the beaches of Michalioú Kipos. The 'Garden of Michael' at the end of the dead-end road reveals beautiful bathing coves with loungers and sun umbrellas. Only the roaring Meltemi, as the Aegean summer wind is called, may disturb some bathers.

From here I later take the asphalt road to its end, where motorhomes narrow the path. On the sea, rigs and kites glide in the wind. The beach of Agrilaopótamos is littered with surf equipment. Karpathos is a paradise for surfers. After all, Afiártis is considered the windiest spot in Europe and regularly hosts international surfing competitions.

For 9 euros, you can rent a sunbed and umbrella at Michalioú Kipos and enjoy a drink from the bar.

Compared to its well-known Greek neighboring islands, Karpathos, with its untouched, authentic, and calm beaches, is still a largely undiscovered gem in the Aegean.

This trip was made possible with the kind support of Germania.