Croatia: Tips for Your Road Trip

There are countries in Europe that are perfect for a road trip, and one of them is Croatia. This Eastern European country is small, compact, and packed with hidden gems and landmarks, making it almost a waste to spend the vacation in just one place. In this article, Franzi takes you on her road trip along the Adriatic.

The most beautiful places in Croatia are never more than a few hours apart by car, and many of the over 1000 islands can be easily reached by ferry. If you want to see a lot of Croatia, you'll hardly manage without a rental car. While most major cities can also be reached by train or bus, public transport is only well-developed in the cities. To discover the stunning beaches, coves, and national parks of the country, a car is necessary.

A great starting point for a Croatian road trip is Istria. From there, you head down the coast, stopping at historic old towns and picturesque islands along the way. Just before crossing the border, you'll return to the airport via the country's most beautiful national park. Here are some special places you absolutely cannot miss on a Croatian road trip.

Istria is considered the most cosmopolitan part of Croatia and is separated from the rest of the country by the Ćićarija mountain range. Between the World Wars, the region was occupied by the Italians. To this day, the Italian heritage is evident in the bilingual street signs and the characteristic architecture found in the old towns.

The largest city in Istria is Pula. It is known for its Roman amphitheater, which is the sixth largest arena of the Roman Empire. Today, the arena is open to visitors and is also used for concerts. Admission costs adults 70 Kuna (approximately 9.50 euros, as of August 2020). The opening hours vary from month to month, and a summary can be found here. Other exciting attractions in Pula include the former city walls, the triumphal arch, and the Temple of Augustus.

In addition to the enchanting old town of Pula with its many charming restaurants and cafés, the beaches and coves around the city are also a true highlight. The most beautiful ones can be found on the Verudela peninsula. For example, the beaches Ambrela, Brioni, and Hawaii are located right next to each other.

Which restaurants in Pula are recommended? At Veritas Food and Wine (Maksimijanova Ulica 14), you can find not only seafood and fresh fish from the nearby harbor but also dishes for vegetarians and vegans. At Kod Kadre (Teslina Ulica 51), you can also enjoy very good Croatian cuisine.

The drive from Pula to Rijeka takes about an hour and a half. If you want to save on tolls and drive along the coast, it takes only half an hour longer. Along the way, a stop at the wonderful Hemingway Beach, located a few kilometers before Rijeka, is worthwhile. The city offers many accommodation options and is a great starting point for a day trip to Krk Island.

Krk is the largest island in Croatia and can be reached via a toll bridge. On the northwest coast, the popular vacation spots Omišalj, Njivice, and Malinska are located. The town of Krk, located on the southern coast with its harbor and Frankopan Fortress, is also worth seeing. The most beautiful spot on the island is Vrbnik, where you can stroll through narrow streets and shop for local products.

Krk Island is known for its clean sea, with a total of 37 blue-flagged beaches in the Kvarner region, 15 of which are on Krk. Among the most beautiful are Vela Plaža beach near Baška, the public beach at the Njivice campsite, and Portapisana near the old town of Krk. The beach Oprna, located near the town of Stara Baška, can only be reached on foot or by boat-but the effort is worth it.

From Rijeka, it's about a three-hour drive to the port city of Zadar. Almost every city in Croatia has a stunning old town, and in Zadar, visitors can look forward to a particularly beautiful example. The old town lies on a small peninsula and is partially surrounded by a medieval city wall.

Among the attractions in Zadar is the old Roman forum, the stones of which were used in the construction of the Church of St. Donatus. However, the real highlight of the city is the Romanesque cathedral from the 12th century, which stands right beside it. From its bell tower, you can enjoy a breathtaking view over the city and the sea. Admission to the tower costs about two euros (as of July 2020).

A must-do in Zadar is a trip to the nearby island of Lokrum. Depending on demand, a small ferry departs directly from the old town one to two times per hour and takes about 15 minutes. On the wooded island, there are some of the most stunning swimming bays in the region, great hiking trails, and an old Benedictine monastery. Fans of the series Game of Thrones will particularly enjoy it here: Filming not only took place around the monastery, but visitors can also get their picture taken on the Iron Throne. More filming locations can be found throughout Dubrovnik and the surrounding area.

Zadar hosts a large ferry port with numerous connections domestically and internationally. A hidden gem for a few days on an island is still Dugi Otok. Resorts, parties, and beach clubs are non-existent here. Instead, the island scores with quiet bays and the stunning Telašćica Nature Park (entry: 40 Kuna, approx. 5.50 euros, as of August 2020). Other highlights on the island include snorkeling spots around the Veli Rat lighthouse and the stalactite cave Strašna Peć. An overview of ferry schedules and prices can be found here.

Where to stay cheaply in Zadar and on Dugi Otok? A luxurious camping experience in Zadar is offered by the mobile homes at Falkensteiner Premium Camping. The Maslina Božava Apartments (Bozava19, Božava) on Dugi Otok are budget-friendly and provide some of the friendliest hosts on the island.

Which restaurants in Zadar and on Dugi Otok are recommended? In the heart of Zadar's old town lies Jadera Traditional Restaurant (Ulica Brne Krnarutica 4). Here, Mediterranean dishes are served, but vegetarian and gluten-free options are also on the menu. Most restaurants on Dugi Otok can be found at the harbor in Sali. A bit away from the hustle and bustle is Konoba Marin (Ulica V 7b), where you can enjoy dinner in a cozy shady courtyard.

Halfway between Zadar and Split lies Krka National Park. Here, the Krka River creates many beautiful lakes and waterfalls that visitors can follow on an easy, designated hiking trail. Swimming is allowed in one of the largest waterfalls, Skradinski Buk. It's recommended to bring swimwear and preferably water shoes to the park. Hiking shoes are not required for Krka National Park; the path is well-marked and manageable even in sneakers.

By car, it's best to drive from Zagreb to Skradin and buy a ticket on-site (entry: 200 Kuna in the peak season, approximately 27 euros, as of July 2020). A national park boat then takes you through a gorge directly into the park. Including swim time, you should plan at least half a day for the park. If you have more time available, you can certainly stay longer and explore the more remote parts of Krka through various boat tours. More information on the opening hours, entry fees, and the different park entrances can be found here.

The entrance fee for Plitvice Lakes National Park (200 Kuna in the peak season, approximately 27 euros, as of July 2020) includes the panoramic train from the entrance to the lakes and the electric boat on Kozjak Lake. Unfortunately, swimming is not allowed in the entire park. Although Plitvice Lakes National Park is somewhat more natural than Krka National Park, there are plenty of food options available. More details about the park can be found here.

Which restaurants near Plitvice Lakes National Park are recommended? If you want to refuel after a long day in the national park, Plitvice Lakes Petar (Rastovaca 4, Rastovaca) is a great choice. The restaurant offers local cuisine and dishes straight from the charcoal grill.

One of the most beautiful places in Croatia is the coastal city of Split. The country's second-largest city was built around the ruins of the palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian (3rd century) and is considered the gateway to the islands of Dalmatia off the coast. The Diocletian Palace (entry is free here) is a UNESCO World Heritage site and, of course, one of the highlights of the city. Other exciting attractions include the chapel of St. Jerome, the Meštrović Gallery (entry: 50 Kuna, approximately 6.70 euros, as of August 2020), and the Marjan Peninsula, which offers a fantastic view of the sea and the nearby islands. As everywhere in Croatia, you should also take enough time for an extensive walk through the old town.

If you want to take a ferry to one of the nearby islands from Split, you have plenty of choices. Fast and hassle-free to reach is, for example, Brač. The largest island of the Dalmatian islands offers two superlatives: From its highest mountain, you can see the most famous beach in Croatia. The 'Golden Horn' Zlatni Rat is a triangular spit of fine pebbles that extends 300 meters into the sea. The country's most photographed beach is always busy, but you can find quiet spots between the nearby rocky caves.

Other great beaches are located in the town of Bol on the southern coast. A worthwhile excursion is Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of the Adriatic islands at 778 meters. Here, the view stretches from Zlatni Rat to the islands of Hvar and Korčula. You only need to hike the last few meters, as there is a parking lot nearby. If you need a bit more exercise, you can hike from Bol along a well-marked path through shady pine forests to reach the summit.

Where can you stay cheaply in Split and Brač? As tempting as it may be to stay in the old town: parking is impossible, and luggage often has to be carried very far. The A&M Apartment and Rooms is also centrally located and offers affordable, very nice apartments with free parking. Affordable luxury on the island of Brač with a great location can be found at the Aparthotel Belado Residence in Bol.

It's another good three-hour drive from Split to Dubrovnik. The question of whether it's worth driving down the coast just before Montenegro can be answered with a clear yes. Dubrovnik is not only breathtaking but also offers a fascinating history, stunning nature, and many sights.

The best view over the old town of Dubrovnik and the ocean is provided by the city walls, which are up to 25 meters high and six meters wide in some places. At 170 Kuna (approximately 22.50 euros, as of July 2020), admission is not cheap. However, it is definitely worth walking around the entire city this way. Admission to the city walls also includes the Tvrđava Lovrijenac fortress outside the Pile Gate.

A must for a quick drink and a refreshing dip in the sea is Café Buža (Crijevićeva Ul. 9), which can be reached through a small door in the city wall. The bar was practically carved directly into the rocks by the ocean and is also a fantastic spot for watching the sunset. A wonderful view of the sea and the city wall, as well as delicious local cuisine, can also be found at Gradska Kavana Arsenal (Pred Dvorom 1).

Where to stay cheaply in Dubrovnik? In Dubrovnik, it's also essential to pay attention to free parking when looking for an apartment, as many accommodations are located in the narrow alleys of the old town. The Apartments Lora are a good compromise: they are centrally located and offer an excellent price-performance ratio.

Last but not least, at the end of the trip, it's worth breaking up the long drive back to the airport with a stop at Plitvice Lakes National Park. This 295 km² forest reservation in the central part of the country is famous for its 16 cascade-like lakes that are interconnected by waterfalls and stretch into a limestone canyon. There are many hiking trails along the shore and across the water with great views of the lakes and waterfalls.

Plitvice Lakes National Park is significantly larger than Krka National Park, and good hiking shoes will indeed pay off here. Although the four marked trails can be easily navigated in sneakers, there are also more remote mountain hiking routes that you should not attempt without suitable hiking gear.

Croatia offers a wonderful mix of relaxation, exciting culture, and extraordinary natural experiences. From crystal-clear waters and golden beaches to romantic old towns and stunning national parks, there's something for everyone here. For a road trip along the coast, including a detour inland, you should plan at least two, preferably three weeks. This way, it is truly possible to see a large part of the country in a relatively short time without missing out on relaxation.

What are the toll costs in Croatia? In Croatia, there is no vignette. Instead, the price is calculated based on the kilometers driven on the highway and the vehicle class. 100 kilometers cost about eight euros by car. Additional fees apply for certain tunnels. Sometimes, it's worth avoiding the toll roads and taking the more scenic route along the coast instead.

Where can you park in Croatia? Almost every city in Croatia has free or very cheap parking, which is indicated on Google Maps (keyword: Free Parking). In rural areas and at beaches, Croatians park wherever possible, as tickets are virtually never issued. When booking accommodation, always ensure that free parking is available.

Do you need to rent a car in Croatia? It's very difficult to get from A to B in Croatia using public transport. A well-developed bus network exists only in larger cities like Dubrovnik. All major towns are also connected by public transportation. However, it's usually difficult to manage without a car once you're on-site.

Is it advisable to travel alone in Croatia? Croatia is a very safe travel destination, making it completely possible to travel alone. However, common sense is always required, as it is everywhere in the world. After a night out, it's advisable to take a taxi to your accommodation if you are alone.

Can you drink tap water in Croatia? Tap water in Croatia is strictly monitored and can be safely drunk everywhere - even on the islands.