Colombia's Bogotá: Colorful and Full of Potential

With the Star Alliance Round The World Ticket, Anne and Clemens traveled around the globe. They explored Bogotá, Colombia on foot and by bicycle, using the cable car only for the Monserrate Mountain. In our blog, they take you along.

Bogotá - a city that combines conflicts like few others in the world. Some call it dangerous, while others describe it as an emerging city. We wanted to form our own opinion and traveled to Colombia's capital to experience the city in as many different ways as possible. We started on the local mountain, Monserrate, then rode 13 kilometers through the city's streets by bicycle and walked through the small alleys with their colorful graffiti on the walls. Now we know that Bogotá offers more than just violence, drugs, and conflicts. The city is vibrant, diverse, and full of potential.

Already upon arrival in Bogotá, it is hard to miss, and while walking through Colombia's capital, the white church of Cerro de Monserrate majestically overlooks the hustle and bustle of the eight-million-strong city: it is located at an altitude of 3,150 meters on Monserrate Mountain, the local mountain of Bogotá.

There are several ways to enjoy the view from high up on the mountain over the metropolis. Those looking for a workout can climb the steep 1,500-step hiking trail. The trek takes about one to one and a half hours and passes snack stands, making it popular among locals on weekends. It is also advisable for tourists to hike up on weekends, as there have been occasional reports of robberies during the week when the trail is less crowded.

Bogotá lies at an elevation of 2,640 meters above sea level. For those who might need a little time to adjust to this unusually thin air, they can opt for the cable car, funicular, or gondola (Teleférico) instead of the stairs. Both start from the Monserrate Station.

Once at the top, we could finally understand how vast Bogotá truly is. The 1,700 square kilometer capital of Colombia stretches over several heights and is therefore wonderful to observe from above. With a strong black coffee (Tinto) in hand, we wandered along the small road of Monserrate to the church, which regularly receives pilgrims. Right next to the church is a small market with some art stands and many food stalls - perfect for a late breakfast.

When: Monday to Saturday from 7 AM to 12 AM, Sunday from 6 AM to 6 PM.

How: On foot along the hiking trail, alternatively by gondola (Teleférico) or cable car (Funicular).

Cost: Monday to Friday 16,400 Pesos (approximately $4.86), Sunday 9,400 Pesos (approximately $2.78).

Anyone spending a Sunday in Bogotá should definitely rent a bicycle or grab their own and join a bike tour, as Sundays are bike days in Bogotá. Every Sunday from 7 AM to 2 PM, about 120 kilometers of all roads in Colombia's capital are closed to cars - and opened for cyclists. Families, friends, and acquaintances gather to enjoy the paths and streets that are otherwise clogged with heavy traffic during the week.

The Ciclovía in Bogotá is not just any car-free Sunday, but a true festival with tradition. It was born in 1976 out of a student protest on bicycles. Today, it takes place not only in Bogotá but also in Ecuador's capital Quito, in Paris, and in Mexico City.

We also experienced a Sunday in Bogotá and rented bikes bright and early from Bogota Bike Tours. We started in the neighborhood of La Candelaria, the historical part of the city, where one can admire brightly colored colonial houses. From there, we continued through the beautiful Calle 11, past the Museo Botero, the museum of the most famous Colombian painter Fernando Botero, and the Gabriel García Márquez Cultural Center to the heart of the city and the most popular starting point for tours through Bogotá: Plaza de Bolívar.

In the center of the plaza stands a bronze statue of South American independence fighter Simón Bolívar, surrounded by thousands of pigeons that small children chase, feed, or just admire. The plaza itself is lined with all the politically and administratively significant buildings: the Capitolio Nacional, which houses the chambers of Congress of the Republic of Colombia, the Edificio Liévano, the city hall, and the Palacio de Justicia, the court. The neighborhood of La Candelaria is not only famous as Bogotá's historical and cultural center but also as one of the most photogenic. Thanks to the cobblestones and the many colorful houses, La Candelaria transports each visitor a little back to colonial times.

We left La Candelaria behind, rode up Carrera 7, and right into the city center. Admittedly, this part of the city is neither particularly beautiful nor particularly interesting. However, the Museo del Oro, the Gold Museum, is worth seeing as it boasts an impressive collection of gold artifacts and presents the Colombian gold story interestingly.

Along with hundreds of other cyclists, we leisurely rode through Colombia's capital, usually clogged with cars. Occasionally we had to stop, either because too many cyclists were on the road or because Colombian live music was playing nearby, or it was time for a Salpicón de Frutas - a Colombian mix of fruit juice and fruit salad that is perfect for a bike tour. The unique aspect of the Ciclovía in Bogotá is not only that all the streets are closed but also the atmosphere, which thanks to the many street vendors, resembles a festival more than a bike ride. Musicians and artists gather on either side of the road amid a variety of food stalls, selling everything imaginable from meat skewers and corn on the cob to fruit salads.

After a short stop for some chicken skewers and empanadas (stuffed pastries), we continued along Carrera 7 through Parque de la Independencia to Centro Internacional, home to the Santamaría Arena - a bullfighting arena that reopened this year amid heavy protests. Right next to the arena is the Museo Nacional, located in a former prison.

By now, the sun had broken through the thick rain clouds, and we pedaled vigorously, as we had a long way to go: Nearly 13 kilometers across Bogotá, always following Carrera 7, to Usaquén - Bogotá's first district. After nearly two hours, we collapsed on the comfortable benches of the shopping center Hacienda Santa Bárbara, sipping a strong Tinto and watching the colorful activity at the market directly in front of the shopping center.

The Ciclovía is the perfect opportunity to get to know Bogotá, the people, and especially Colombian culture on your own terms.

When: Every Sunday and public holidays from 7 AM to 2 PM.

How: It's easiest to bike, which costs 9,000 Pesos (approximately $2.70) per hour at Bogota Bike Tours. Alternatively, Bogota Bike Tours also offers bike tours that start daily at 10:30 AM and 1:30 PM from their office in La Candelaria, costing 40,000 Pesos (approximately $11.85).

What: 120 kilometers of Bogotá's roads are closed off by volunteers. Along the sides of the roads, there are food stalls, as well as bike stations where one can get their own bicycle repaired.

Who: Nowadays, nearly two million locals and tourists allegedly participate in the Ciclovía.

From our hotel Casa Platypus, we strolled shortly before ten in the morning across Parque de los Periodistas in the Usaquén neighborhood of La Candelaria. Our plan: a graffiti tour through Bogotá. We are definitely not alone in this, as we can already see large groups of other tourists from afar at the meeting point.

As soon as we arrive, Anne, a German who has lived in Bogotá for five years, approaches us and introduces herself: 'Hi, I'm Anne and I'll show you the graffiti of Bogotá today,' she explains, much more alert than we are.

Bogotá and graffiti belong together like Guatemala and guacamole or the USA and their burgers. It's no surprise there are now guided graffiti tours through the Colombian capital. Bogota Graffiti is the agency behind it, founded by a Canadian and an Australian, which has been offering tours twice a day for donations since 2011.

The origin of the graffiti culture can be traced back to the Colombian indigenous people, the Chibcha, who centuries ago already put petroglyphs - rock carvings - on cave walls. Today, graffiti in Bogotá expresses social and cultural criticism. The era of 'La Violencia', the civil war, drug conflicts, and the still widely prevalent poverty provide ample reasons to voice one's opinion publicly - and in Bogotá, that opinion ends up on the walls, gradually transforming the city into a true work of art.

We stroll through the cobblestone streets of La Candelaria, past the graffiti by Australian artist CRISP, Colombian artists Guache and Rodez, and the walls painted by Spanish artist Pez. The tour lasts about 2.5 hours and ends in a new, vibrant part of the downtown area, which is otherwise often overlooked. Today, there are many traditional restaurants and the city's largest mural, depicting a mix of indigenous stories and ubiquitous conflicts.

When: Daily at 10 AM and 2 PM starting from Parque de Los Periodistas.

How: On foot with an English-speaking guide.

Cost: Donations of 20,000 to 30,000 Pesos (approximately $5.90 - $8.90) are expected.

We spent nearly four days in Colombia's capital, Bogotá, and can say that we explored many corners of the city. Our conclusion: Bogotá is definitely worth a trip and should be more than just the starting or ending point of a journey through Colombia. The small alleys of La Candelaria, as well as the hip corners of Parque 93 and Zona Rosa, convinced us: Bogotá is cool, youthful, and on its way to becoming a very interesting and exciting travel destination.