Beijing: A Love at Second Sight

Beijing and I - to speak of love at first sight here would be quite a bold lie. And I dare to claim that most travelers likely feel the same way. But sometimes, it sparks on the second glance, and one has to get to know better to discover the merits of the other.

Beijing is loud and nerve-wracking. A smog hell with far too much traffic, far too many impressions, and far too many people. Why in the world would anyone want to spend their vacation here? The answer is simple: Because one cannot experience the cultural hub of China with all its peculiarities as impressively as in the capital. Beijing is not only the political but also the cultural center of the Middle Kingdom. For those interested in its past, more than 3,000 years of history can be experienced up close. From millennia-old dynasties to the founding of the People's Republic, there are few countries that have a more exciting story to tell.

At the center of Beijing lies the Forbidden City, surrounded in a circular fashion by the metropolis. The old Imperial Palace, Gugong, spans an impressive 72 hectares and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was occupied in 1420 and was considered the power center of China until 1911. It was not until 1924 that the last ruler was forced to leave the palace. Shortly thereafter, the Palace Museum opened, and the public had access to the complex for the first time.

In short: the Forbidden City was no longer forbidden. Like almost all public places in China, the Forbidden City was hopelessly overcrowded for many years. In 2015, the government therefore introduced a cap of 80,000 visitors per day. Those who wish to visit the old Imperial Palace today must obtain a ticket online and register their passport.

Beijing shows that it is much more than just a concrete jungle with its many parks and green spaces. Among the most beautiful is Jingshan Park, which covers 23 hectares and is located north of the Forbidden City. In the past, emperors from the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties strolled here. Today, the park is open to anyone looking to escape the hustle and bustle of the city for a few hours. The hot spot is Jingshan Hill, which offers a breathtaking view over the Forbidden City.

Perhaps the most beautiful setting to walk in the footsteps of the ancient emperors in Beijing is the Summer Palace, which was once a gift from Emperor Qianlong to his mother. Although the site has been repeatedly destroyed and had to be rebuilt, it is truly impressive and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998.

Visitors to the Summer Palace should bring plenty of time. From temples to gardens to exhibitions, there is so much to discover that the day flies by. A must-see in the summer is visiting Nanhu Dao Island, which can be reached by boat or via the famous Seventeen-Arch Bridge. Around midday, a break at one of the restaurants and tea houses serving traditional Chinese dishes and offering insights into the local tea culture is well worth it.

Over 20,000 kilometers long and made up of over 43,000 individual components and locations, it ranks among the seven new wonders of the world. Originally built to protect borders and populations from raids and attacks, we are speaking of the Great Wall of China, construction of which began as early as the 7th century BC.

There are various sections of the wall that travelers can visit from Beijing. One of the most popular and beautiful is Mutianyu, which translates to 'Valley of Beautiful Fields.' Mutianyu is the longest fully restored section of the wall, connecting the Jiankou section in the east with the Baima Pass in the west.

Mutianyu is especially famous for its spectacular views - 23 watchtowers offer breathtaking sights of the seemingly endless wall and the surrounding landscapes on clear days. The ascent is via a gondola, and those who wish can descend via the summer toboggan if the weather is good.

Walking along the Great Wall feels almost a bit surreal. As you walk from tower to tower, it feels like a journey through time, as the wall has been continually expanded and new segments added since its construction began. The wall was only completed during the Ming Dynasty in the 17th century, meaning that the Great Wall underwent constant changes for over 2,000 years.

Another way to dive deep into Chinese culture is through the national cuisine. It is anything but homogeneous and is instead divided into various regional cuisines. One of these is the northern Chinese Beijing cuisine, which includes influences from Mongolia and Shandong. In Beijing, there is simple northern Chinese everyday cuisine, which is based on utilizing all available food sources. This is due to the fact that this climatically harsh region has often faced crop failures and famines. On the other hand, there is Mandarin cuisine, which is considered high-end cuisine of the ruling house. Typical dishes in northern China include noodle soups and stuffed dumplings of various sizes. The most famous dish in Beijing is Peking duck, for which ducks are raised specifically and prepared in a very elaborate way. In the upscale Mandarin cuisine, the Eight Delicacies are especially popular, including fish, vegetables, chicken, and duck.

My favorite street food market is Wangfujing Snack Street - a night market south of the Haoyou Department Store in the Dongcheng District. Because many expats and tourists frequent here, many stall owners speak English. This way, you can also ask what you're actually eating, and vegetarians are offered alternatives as well. For those new to China and especially for vegetarians/vegans, Black Sesame Kitchen Restaurant is a great address. Here you can find authentic Chinese food and also English-speaking staff.

Traditional and affordable restaurants with small food stalls can often be found in the hutongs. These are the narrow alleys that still exist in the old city of Beijing. Hutongs are especially found around the Forbidden City, as they were previously inhabited by high-ranking officials and imperial family members. For many centuries, a large part of public life took place in the courtyards - including cooking, eating, and doing laundry. Today, the closely lined residential houses in traditional construction style are partly restored, and it's a lot of fun to explore the winding paths.

Last but not least, Beijing also has a modern side that is worth exploring. For example, there are gigantic shopping malls, a wild nightlife, and luxurious spas that cast China's capital in a completely different light. A must-visit is definitely Sanlitun with its 'Bar Street' and the futuristic shopping center Taikoo Li. The best address for shopping is Hongqiao Market (Pearl Market). From electronics and watches to silk products, clothing, and art, there's nothing you can't find here.

Beijing is certainly not among the usual suspects when it comes to a city trip. Nevertheless, it is worthwhile to plan a few extra days in the Chinese capital. Because when you look behind the scenes, there is an immense amount of beautiful, exciting, and often quirky things to see and experience. For those interested in history and culture, there is hardly a better travel destination, and often it is the love at second sight that lasts a lifetime.